Crucero en la Eden

If you ever visit the Galapagos, it’s important to know that the best time to use the internet is between 02:00-to-07:00 am, because, unlike the local roosters, everybody and everything is asleep. Outside of these hours, getting online is like being transported to 1997, as shown here:

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Absolutely not fast dot com.

Nevertheless, being up with the larks roosters today was semi-planned. We’ve been disembarked from our Galapagos cruise since Sunday, and we thought it time to talk about our experience on the Eden. And this post really needs pictures, which therefore requires “good” internet!

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Much like the rest of our stay on the Galapagos, eight, oft bumpy, days cruising around the archipelago was phenomenal.

We were a little trepidatious when we left Puerto Ayora for Balta Airport, where we were meeting the rest of our shipmates and our guide, because many hours of research had resulted in us choosing the Eden. This particular route included Genovesa & Espanola islands, which are both great for birdwatching, however we had no idea who our naturalist was going to be. Why is that important? We had read accounts on various review sites that noted to have a good experience in the Galapagos relies a lot on how passionate and knowledgeable your guide is that shows you around the national park. Luckily, the Eden cruise, which sleeps sixteen passengers – eight up; eight down – works with a naturalist called Wilo, who is somewhat of a local superstar guide. Lucky us!

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Our route saw us visit the north-east, centre, and south of the archipelago, which looked like this;

  • Sunday – Baltra & Santa Cruz (North)
  • Monday – Genovesa
  • Tuesday – Bartolome & Santiago
  • Wednesday – Santa Cruz (North and West)
  • Thursday – Santa Cruz (Highlands)
  • Friday – Floreana
  • Saturday – Espanola
  • Sunday – San Cristobal

On each day, we were surprised by the different experiences that we had. This post would be a dissertation for us to do the trip justice, which unfortunately means we have to note only our highlights, which are in temporal order;

…meeting our shipmates for the first time outside Baltra Airport and Jeffery pointing out Wilo’s percentage calculations with some quick maths…the group was off to a cracking start…

 …being, quite literally, thrown around in bed during the 7-hour overnight boat ride to Genovesa…

…Monday morning snorkelling with hammerhead sharks and walking with Red-footed Boobies; Monday afternoon snorkelling with Galapagos Fur Seels and walking with Nazca Boobies…

…the sounds and smells from thousands of birds on Genovesa Island at dusk…

…being told the week before the cruise that we wouldn’t see Galapagos Penguins because there are only about 500 and they are hiding in the cold waters around Fernandina, only to wake up on Tuesday morning and see Galapagos Penguins. And then snorkel with them…

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Riding the panga around Black Turtle Cove, Santa Cruz

…hiking up Bartolome to capture the picturesque views of Pinnacle Rock and Santiago…

…walking on miles of solid lava and feeling inspired by the infinite shapes and forms of what was once liquid inside our planet…

…hearing the Galapagos Hawk for the first time…

…Walter the Kitchen Wizard’s cooking everyday. What that guy did in his 5ftx7ft kitchen was unbelievable. Did anyone say pineapple?…

…snorkelling with a Galapagos Penguin (again!) then in the same breath witnessing a Blue-footed Booby dive underwater to the ocean bed and catch a fish, after which it surfaced and nearly took Daisy’s head off…

…being mesmerised by Giant Tortoises. They may move slower than the Earth’s crust, but they are breathtaking animals…

…walking inside a lava tunnel and building up further interest in geology…

…reading postcards in Post Office Bay on Floreana. Paul from Bradford, your postcard from Sasha is going with us around South America. We will take photos and will send it once we get back…

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A pair of Albatross and us!

…visiting Espanola island! So many highlights here, like watching a Sea Lion with a fresh baby, surrounded by placenta that was being eaten by Hood Mockingbirds; seeing Waved Albatross greet each other; photographing the Galapagos Hawk in flight…

…building up friendships with people from Britain, China, Indonesia, Denmark, Canada, Israel, Hong Kong and Bognor Regis…

Anyone who is familiar with the major islands will see that the glaring omission is Fernandina, and some smaller islands like Rabida and South Plaza. A lot of cruises will do the Northern Route – Genovesa & Espanola; or the Western Route – Isabela, Fernandina & Espanola. Very few boats do all four islands because the distances are so far, unless you want to spend a lot of money, which we do not have the luxury of doing.


All these words and pictures may tell a story. Whether that story is a good one remains to be seen. If you take one thing away though, let it be this; if you are planning a year away, or have children who are curious about nature, or want a 2 week holiday, put Galapagos on your list of considered destinations.

As Wilo said to us on our final day on the Eden:

You know, my friends, I visit these islands every month, but every time I come back I see something different, something unique.

Based on our time here, we both wholeheartedly agree.


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It’s been 72 hours since we reached dry land, and are both feeling adequately rested after our cruise. Today (Wednesday?) will probably see us hike to a bay on San Cristobal that is famous for nesting birds. Daisy is also wrestling with the choice of whether or not to do one last dive, while I am enjoying reading classic novels; War of the Worlds in the latest on deck. It’s a hard life.

What is our next stop? Our flight to mainland Ecuador is on Friday, with an overnight stay in Guayaquil – which is pronounced “Whyakeel” – then Peru on Saturday. 8 hours on a bus will be alleviated by having 21st Century internet. It’s time to get on the IG Stories.

Until next time.

I & D/

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